Jens Asbjørn Bøgen
The other two members of the group are safe.
A late-night attempt to complete one of New Zealand’s most challenging alpine routes ended in tragedy this week.
Authorities say two climbers fell from the summit ridge of Aoraki/Mount Cook on Monday night while undertaking the mountain’s renowned grand traverse.
Half of the team
The pair were part of a four-member team made up of two professional guides and their clients.
According to a press release from New Zealand Mountain Safety Council (MSC) and New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA), the remaining guide and client were assisted safely down the ridge without injury.
The MSC confirmed the accident and said support was being provided to the families of those who died.
Stable conditions
MSC Chief Executive Mike Daisley said in the statement, that early summer often draws large numbers of climbers to the Southern Alps, with conditions recently described as stable.
He noted that “recent fine weather has drawn many mountaineers to the high alpine,” adding that firm snow and well-filled glaciers had encouraged multiple ascents of Aoraki/Mt Cook in recent days.
Community in shock
Industry figures say one of the victims, a guide whose name has not yet been released by police, was widely respected.
Anna Keeling, NZMGA, said: “They were an integral part of our guiding community. NZMGA’s focus is now on those most affected, and our priority is supporting the family, including their partner and children.”
The accident follows a similar tragedy in December 2024, when three climbers, including two North American guides, died on the same peak. Their bodies were never recovered.
Investigation underway
Daisley said the latest deaths highlight the unforgiving nature of high alpine terrain. “Mountaineering has very little margin for error. Even the most qualified professionals cannot eliminate all risk,” he said.
The NZMGA has confirmed that a formal investigation will be launched. Keeling said the findings would eventually help the sector understand “what happened in this tragic accident.”
Both organisations have extended condolences to the families and New Zealand’s guiding community.
