Anna Hartz
Skincare trends come and go, but few have created as much buzz as retinol.
It promises smoother, firmer, and more youthful-looking skin. You might have seen it in creams, serums, or even eye products. But what does science say, and are there risks to using it?
The Science
Retinol is part of a group of compounds called retinoids. It is a form of vitamin A, which supports skin, vision, and the immune system, writes Videnskab. When applied to the skin, enzymes turn retinol into retinoic acid, its active form. This is what makes it effective.
Over-the-counter retinol is usually mild. It is often marketed as an anti-aging ingredient because it can reduce fine lines, even skin tone, and improve texture. Retinol also helps exfoliate the skin, clearing pores. Stronger retinoid treatments, like tretinoin, require a prescription in many countries, including the US and EU.
Retinol works by stimulating the production of skin cells and collagen. Collagen gives skin structure and elasticity. The treatment also speeds up cell turnover, replacing old cells with new ones. Over time, this can reduce fine lines, lighten dark spots, and give the skin a fresher appearance. Results take weeks or months. Some people experience an initial breakout, called “purging,” as the skin adjusts.
Watch Out for the Sun
Side effects are usually mild at low concentrations (0.1–0.3%). Irritation may include redness, dryness, or flaking. The skin also becomes more sensitive to sunlight, which increases the risk of sunburn and dark spots. Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 is essential.
Retinol is not suitable for children or pregnant and nursing people. Those with sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea may find it too strong. Combining retinol with other strong acids can over-exfoliate and damage the skin barrier.
Retinol is unstable and can break down when exposed to light, heat, or air. Products in airtight, opaque packaging are safest. Start slowly, using a small amount once or twice a week at night. Gradually increase use and concentration, but do not exceed 0.3%. Moisturizer helps reduce dryness and irritation.
If irritation persists, stop using the product and consult a dermatologist. With careful use, retinol can improve skin appearance, but safety and patience are key.
Sources: Videnskab
